We saw lots of collections over the past three days -- some with subtle colours and straight lines, others with lots of embellishment and layered silhouettes. One collection that stood out was Pria Kataria Puri's.
The show was jumpstarted by a belly dancer moving across the ramp. Every piece that followed had an overdose of embellishment, with heavy material like fur and velvet, belts and exotic headdresses.
Some called her clothes garish, others thought them exotic. We decided to find out if that over-the-top element sprang from Pria's personal sensibility, or whether it was a calculated move to attract a particular market.
"I used to design clothes with clean lines, four years ago," says Pria. "But the theme of my current collection was deliberately chosen after much study of the international market." A majority of buyers, apparently, come from the Middle East. The clothes had an Egyptian sensibility, and the collection was titled Cleo Funk the Cleo short for Cleopatra.
"Normally, when we create a new line of clothing, we study who the buyers are, what their expectation from us is, and who does the buying from them. The current collection is a pre-Ramadan one. In the Middle East, the maximum amount of money is spent during Ramadan. During those 40 days of fasting, people wear a new outfit almost daily. They spend money like water, as long as the clothes are exotic, exclusive and something they have not already seen," the designer explains.
Surprisingly, boutiques in Europe that specifically look for 'exotic' clothing, are also amongst Pria's target audience. Hence, the collection that was inspired by Egypt is mixed with European elements like lace and European styling.
Pria also offers insights on how buyers in the Middle East differ from those in Europe. The former don't care much for comfortable lining on the inside. However, those in Europe want the inner lining to be very smooth and comfortable, and are willing to pay extra for the same.
Not surprisingly, the designer's stall at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week was designed to resemble a luxurious white tent, with exotic lamps et al.
Photograph: Jewella C Miranda
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