The cultural richness that began from a narrow bank of the Yamuna has continued for over 7 centuries.
And you literally go underground for as little at Rs 50 to see it!
In Delhi's new sunken museum at the Humayun's Tomb complex, I met Amir Khusrau, Dara Shikoh, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, Humayun, Jahanara and Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan.
A Rs 50 ticket takes you through airport like turnstiles into the country's first underground museum displaying 700 artefacts and a wealth of information about the cultural richness that sprouted from this narrow bank of the Yamuna river.
The rich heritage of this enclave in Nizamuddin has lasted seven centuries -- and continues to flourish, thrive and delight.
The museum takes visitors on a captivating journey through this period, while the building also ingeniously serves as an underground bridge between the Humayun's Tomb complex and Sunder Nursery.
On the day of our visit in late February, the access to Sunder Nursery -- restored and opened to the public in 2018 -- was closed due to security reasons because the prime minister was to attend the annual Jahan-e-Khusrau festival that celebrates the mystical legacy of Sufi scholars and poets like Khusrau, Khanan and many other influenced by Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya.
One of Khusrau's most famous couplets is part of the average Indian impression of the beauty of Kashmir. It is the definitive compliment. No poet has been able to better the two short lines to describe a spot on the map:
Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.
'If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here...'
Written in the 14th century, Khusrau penned this verse in praise of the Nizamuddin area. Three centuries later, Jahangir quoted from the poet's verse to describe the beauty of Kashmir on his first visit as emperor.
The verse also found place in the Red Fort when Shah Jahan got it inscribed in the grand Diwan-e-Khaas.
A native of Kasganj in Uttar Pradesh, Khusrau was the foremost disciple of Hazrat Nizamuddin, the revered Sufi saint whose dargah draws believers and non-believers.
The place in Delhi where prince and paupers have sought refuge, as a line in the museum sums up the Sufi saint's comforting influence among his followers.
Khusrau wrote paeans to India's grandeur, extolling its rivers, beauty and the greatness of Sanskrit and Hindavi traditions.
He described Hindustan as 'a heaven on earth', reads a plaque on the museum wall that gives information about the poet who wrote that the four Vedas were the source of the arts and sciences of Hindustan.
'Hazrat Khusrau described India as greater than all the major nations of the world during his time. He considered Sanskrit the best language in the world,' Prime Minister Modi said at the Sufi music festival at the Sunder Nursery.
The poet wrote both in Persian, the court language and Hindavi, the language of the people. He innovatively used both together and laid the foundation of Urdu.
Among his legacy are the genres of qawwali and ghazal. Strains of qawwalis flow out of digital screens as you go past the galleries devoted to the poet. He is also believed to have invented the sitar and tabla.
A poet of international fame, Khusrau served in the court of six sultans of Delhi and lived into his 70s. He was Hazrat Nizamuddin's favourite disciple. On his death in 1325, he was buried near the grave of the saint.
His death anniversary is commemorated with as much reverence and ceremony as Hazrat Nizmuddin's.
According to information in the museum, he was laid to rest in a simple grave for 200 years till Babur erected a 7 feet tall marble tablet. Later Mughals built a mausoleum -- the present one was built by Jehangir.
An adjacent panel in the museum is designated to Rahim Khan-i-Khanan, commander-in-chief of Akbar and Jahangir's armies and poet.
Rahim wrote in Persian, Sanskrit and Hindavi. He translated the Ramayan and Mahabharat from Sanskrit to Persian and had deep correspondence with poets of the Bhakti movement like Sant Tulsidas.
Hazrat Nizamuddin made the banks of the Yamuna his home and began teaching Sufi mysticism.
The area became sacred ground. Every dynasty that ruled Delhi revered the saint.
'Sufi thinking and cultural traditions emanating from the dargah have for centuries defined the syncretic Ganga-Jamuni culture of Hindustan,' reads the information on one of the museum walls.
The well-laid information in the museum further reveals that according to his wishes, the saint was buried in an open courtyard. A mausoleum was built over the grave a few decades later and for the next 500 years both sultans and Mughal emperors continued to add and embellish the structures.
From then to now, it continues to be the centre of Chishti mysticism. 'The living heritage of music, the intrinsic relationship between the saint and devotees, the associated rituals, cuisines, heritage and craft have survived uninterrupted for over seven centuries,' points out information in the museum.
250 years later, the grand garden-mausoleum for Humayun was built by his son Akbar near the saint's tomb.
Later Mughal rulers like Azam Shah, Alamgir II are also buried here along with 160 uninscribed Mughals. Many sufi poets and scholars are among those who lie in final rest here, including Rahim Khan-i-Khanan and Khusrau.
The information in the museum also mentions that Akbar is said to have learnt thousand names to worship the Sun God from Jain munis. He worshipped the sun every day and believed in the beneficial qualities of water from the Ganga.
Ganga jal was brought to him in sealed jars wherever he went.
He commissioned the translation of the Mahabharat and distributed it among his nobles. Later, he also got the Ramayan translated. A copy was owned by his mother, according to the museum information which has a folio from the Ramayan made for Akbar's mother on display.
Akbar frowned upon orthodox Islam and established a house of worship in Fatehpur Sikri, the information further says under a print of a painting of Akbar with Jesuit priests in 1580.
The museum, developed by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in partnership with the Archaeological Survey of India, is the fruit of 25 years of conservation efforts in a 300-acre site that includes Humayun's Tomb, Sunder Nursery and the Nizamuddin Basti.
It begins with the course of Humayun's journey who chose his clothes every day according to planetary colours in keeping with Hindu astrological traditions.
His unique crown called the Taj-e-Izzat was also made to match the colour of the day.
The museum tells the fascinating stories of saints, kings, poets, scholars, architecture, paintings, art, music and the syncretic tradition of Ganga-Jamuni pluralism in an interesting and engaging manner.
It is well air conditioned and a blend of digital experiences along with gardens and galleries.
The museum relates stories associated with Humayun's Tomb, the World Heritage Site which is visited by over a million visitors annually, Culture Minister Gajendra Singh Shekhawat said at the inauguration of the museum along with Prince Rahim Aga Khan, now the Aga Khan.
Next time you are in Delhi, it will be worth your while to explore the newest addition to the cultural experience.
For Rs 50, it is a steal!
Feature Presentation: Aslam Hunani/Rediff.com
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