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Gopalpur-on-Sea

The golden beaches of Orissa offer beauty and -- more important -- solitude. Gopalpur-on-Sea, 180 km away from Bhubaneshwar, is a picturesque and peaceful seaside resort offering pristine, palm fringed beaches amidst casuarina groves, on the Bay of Bengal.

Gopalpur-on-Sea was once part of the ancient and wealthy kingdom of Kalinga. In its heyday this once-prosperous town -- known then as Paloura -- had established trade links with Sumatra, Java and Bali and boats laden with silk and pearls chugged in and out of its harbour. During the days of the Raj, Oriya labour was despatched from these beaches to Assam via Calcutta.

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Today Gopalpur-on-Sea's chief charm is the odd, melancholic has-been air about the place. During most seasons the bleached guest houses and drooping beach hotels are deserted. And the town quite literally nods in slumber. The only sign of life is the fisherman hauling in their catch. Come the monsoon and the town comes alive with flocks of exuberant Bengali tourists.

Though the beach is the town's biggest draw, one has to be a little thick-skinned to stretch out on the sand under the watchful gaze of fifty-five odd curious onlookers, who will invariably gather. However, the nearby Oberoi resort offers sunbathing in solitude.

Gopalpur-on-Sea is at its prettiest during the monsoon from mid-June to late August.

Fairly comfortable accommodation is available on the beach. The Oberoi resort is an expensive choice, but well worth the extra bucks.

Mermaid, tel # 0680-282050: They offer non-air conditioned double rooms and non-air conditioned suites -- Rs 650 for a first floor double room on twin sharing basis and Rs 600 for a ground floor double room on twin sharing basis and Rs 700 for a suite on twin sharing basis. The hotel is bang on the beach. This tariff includes meals, but 15 per cent taxes are extra. During the monsoon, as a discount, the 15 per cent tax will not be levied. The in-house restaurant serves Indian and continental meals.

Oberoi Palm Beach, tel # 0680-282021, 282023: US $ 175 for a double room on twin sharing basis. This 20-room resort is equipped with a bar, table tennis facilities, lawn tennis facilities and an in-house restaurant serving Indian, continental and Chinese cuisine.

Sea Side Breeze, tel # 0680-282075: Rs 350 for a non-air conditioned double room. During the monsoon the tariff for a non-air conditioned double room is Rs 300. The rates will change some time in June (The date? "That I cannot say. When the monsoon comes I will change the rate," says the proprietor.)

Rosalin, tel # 0680-282071: Rs 75 for a non-air conditoned double room. The hotel has an inhouse restaurant offering Chinese and Indian food.

The sea. The sand. The palm trees. That's about it... Ah, there is an old broken-down jetty to explore.

Gopalpur-on Sea is about 180 km from Bhubaneshwar and easily accessible by road.

The nearest airport is Bhubaneshwar. Indian Airlines flies daily into Bhubaneshwar from Calcutta -- Rs 1,439 for a one way economy ticket.

The closest railhead is at Berhampur, 16 kms away on the Howrah-Madras line. The Calcutta-Berhampur fare, by AC second class, is Rs 593.

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