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Text and photographs: Nilesh Korgaonkar

Lhasa is the heart and soul of Tibet... abode of the Dalai Lama... a place of devout pilgrimage... And the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Anybody expecting an ancient city with monasteries, fluttering prayer flags and twirling prayer wheels has another think coming. Lhasa has been transformed beyond recognition by the cultural onslaught of the Chinese. Modern Lhasa divides itself clearly; into a western, Chinese section and an eastern Tibetan section.

The Chinese section nestled at the foot of the Potala palace and extending a couple of kilometers eastward is an uninspired muddle of restaurants, karaoke bars, administrative blocks and departments stores.

The Tibetan part, based more or less around the ancient Jokhang temple, is more ethnic with its bustling markets and old shops.

Lhasa even boasts of a Holiday Inn, complete with a Hard Yak Cafe. Budget travellers should definitely avoid this place and head straight for the Tibetan quarter where there are a few hotels and guest houses offering less expensive accommodation more suitable to the pocket.

These cheaper hotels are a better bet if you want to pick up the latest on the travel grapevine. The atmosphere is more informal and I spent hours relaxing and chatting with other backpackers who had their own stories to tell. The restaurants attached to these hotels churn out a fare that will suit any palate and pocket. And if you are lucky a couple of Tibetans will walk in and do an impromptu song and dance for the crowd.

They even have bicycles on hire by the hour day and I can't think of a better way to move around Lhasa provided you have a good city map and know where to go.

If you are thinking of joining up with other backpackers and doing a bit more travelling, be sure to scan the notice boards in the lobbies of these hotels for some interesting choices.

This millennium old Jokhang temple at the heart of the old part will occupy a special place amongst my memories of Tibet... full of colour and tradition. What's most interesting is that Tibetans from further afield seem to regularly congregate here for a pilgrimage. An entire cross section of the various tribes can be seen here in just a couple of hours.

Be sure to be armed with a powerful telephoto lens to capture some very rare shots; definitely a photographers' delight.

Early in the morning the whole place begins to reverberate with a religious fervour that has to be experienced to be believed. In the inner premises the monks chant the scriptures, to the accompaniment of drums and horns, that alternatively rise and fall in their intensity. Outside individual pilgrims prostate themselves time and again as they sing their prayers.

Others walk the Barkhar, a three km long circuit around the temple, twirling their prayer wheels as they pay obeisance to the deity inside... a moving experience of profound impact... And proof that all the efforts of the Chinese government to build a Brave New World in this kingdom have not eroded the indomitable spirit of the Tibetan people. The bustling market place behind the temple only adds to the ethnic charm of the place.

Potala, the official residence of the exiled Dalai Lama is Lhasa's landmark. It is a monumnet that deserves place as one of the wonder of Eastern architecture. This magnificent building occupies a prime place on the skyline of the city. But, in beauty it came a definite second for me, when compared to the Jokhang with its tremendous atmosphere.

Nevertheless it has its own majestic presence especially when you gaze at it from a distance. (Tip: It can be viewed and photographed from various places around town -- notably from the top of a hill nearby and from the island in the Lhasa river). A day visit is a must and the conducted tour of the premises is a great experience.

The bus takes you right to top where the entrance is located. There are many unique temples inside and there are great view of the city from the roofs of the various buildings that comprise the palace. Descent on foot using the winding pathways built on the exterior of the palace, down to the inevitable curios market at the base, is a nice way to end the sojourn.

After a few days in this wonderful land I realised that a voyage to Tibet is a novel experience. It is one of the most remarkable places to visit in Asia. It is also a country under occupation. It offers fabulous monastery sights, taxing high altitude treks, fabled pilgrim routes and stunning views of the world's highest mountains. For anyone who travels with his eyes open, Tibet will be a memorable, and at times, a disturbing experience.

But sometimes you meet an elder or monk on the street, who will stop and tell you how much he loves India... because it has given shelter to their beloved Dalai Lama. Just that one empathetic gesture makes me want to visit that fabled land again.

How to go

In fact the past animosity in Sino-Indian relations, particularly the 1962 War, and the fact that China remained closed to foreign travellers until 1985, has caused this 'mind-set' amongst us Indians.

The reality is totally different. The Chinese view the tourism as an industry that is bound to earn them valuable foreign exchange. They have thrown open their doors to all and sundry.

Getting There

Getting to Tibet is easier 'done than said'! For those intending to go from India, Kathmandu is the best gateway. You can fly into the capital of the Himalayan kingdom from any number of cities in India.

To undertake this journey, make sure that you have a valid passport and register yourself with any of the many Tibet tour operators that can be found all over Kathmandu. Take a day to wander around the gullies of Thamel and also visit the travel agents who advertise the Tibet tours. I discovered that it doesn't really matter who you book with, since all of them seem to work in cooperation to make sure that none of them suffers due to want of sufficient number of tourists.

Prices start from $400 and go up according to the kind of transport and accommodation provided. Visas are organised by the tour agency at the local Chinese Embassy. It appears to be a pretty closed affairs run entirely by word of mouth between the various operators, both in Nepal and Tibet. You don’t get any receipt for your tour fees and neither are you asked to sign any papers. But then a journey to Tibet is supposed to be an adventure, isn’t it!

The local Chinese Embassy can process your visa in a day, if you are ready to pay the additional fee for expediting it. So if you land up on a Wednesday and decide by the evening which travel agency you are going to register with, you should be able to start the journey on the same Saturday. The eight day tour starts either on a Tuesday or a Saturday and ends at Lhasa on one of the same day, that is either a Tuesday or a Saturday.

The twice weekly China Southwest Airlines flight from Lhasa operates on these days out of the spanking new Gonggar Airport, 90 km outside Lhasa. The price is US$ 190 one way and this is not included in the tour fees. There is also the more expensive option of flying to Lhasa and flying and back four days later. This way you miss the road journey and, of course, the great sights on the way.

Best Season.

Any time between the months of April to October is ideal. But avoid July and August because the rains in Nepal during these months cause quite a havoc and you could be delayed on the first day due to landslides. By September the rains should have washed the skies clean of any dust to give you fabulous views.

The plane to Lhasa flies over some of the highest mountains in the world and I am told that on a particularly clear day the view from the window is unsurpassable.

Now what?

I have reached the roof of the world. Where does one go from here? Return to Kathmandu?

Or head north or east into mainland China to begin another exciting and unforgettable saga of travel?

Next fortnight Rediff Travel brings you tales from China. Watch this space.

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