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Lucknowi kitchens are all about huge, fragrant handis of rich food -- recipes nearly always call for heavy cream, raisins, saffron, almonds, cashewnuts -- toasting for hours on glowing coal fires and attended to by a battery of cooks. A traditonal Lucknow daavat takes three days to prepare. The first marination. The second marination. The third marination. The simmering overnight on gently, dying fires. The baking all day in clay ovens. Frying. Delicate roasting. Sauteing...

Continental

• Sahib Cafe, Taj Mahal hotel, Vipin Khand, Gomti Nagar, tel # 393939.
• Gulfam, Hotel Clarks Awadh, 8, Mahatma Gandhi Marg. Tel # 216500-9, 220131-33.

Mughlai

• Oudhyana, Taj Mahal hotel, Vipin Khand, Gomtinagar tel # 393939
• Talaknamer, Hotel Clarks Awadh is the only rooftop restaurant in the city with a view of the city from one side and of the Gomti river from the other.
• Nawabeen, Hotel Gomti, Sapru Marg, tel # 211313-17.
• Mehrab, Hotel Gomti, Sapru Marg, tel # 212291.
• Ritz Continental, 17/3, A, Sapru Marg.
• Vyanjan Restaurant, Vinay Palace, 10, Ashok Marg, tel # 280537.
• Dawatkhana, Tulsi Theatre building 1st floor, 12, Rani Lakshmi Bai Marg.
• Sukh Sagar Restaurant, Saran Chambers, located in the basement.
• Kakis Restaurant B-2011, Indira Nagar, tel # 382990.
• Angethi, Indira Nagar, near Bhootnath Market.

Chinese

• The Chef, Sahu Building, Hazratganj.
• Chung Fa, S-7, Gole Market, Mahanagar, tel # 373550
• Jonehing, 77, Hazratganj.
• The coffee shops at the Taj Mahal hotel and at Hotel Clarks Awadh also serve Chinese food.

Quick bites and kebabs

• Coffee shops at the Taj Mahal hotel, Hotel Clarks Awadh and at the Gomti hotel.

They are a variety of fast food stopovers in and around Hazratganj. Recommended:

• Mini Mahal, Hazratganj.
• Spicy Bite, near Inesi theatre.
• Rovers, near the GOP.
• Bakers Hut, near Tulsi threatre.
• Cook Break, Ashok Marg.
• Meal Weal, Habibullah Estate.
• Open Air at Janpath.
• B N Rama, Hazratganj.

Kababs and rumali rotis, huge paper thin chapatis are served in many small restaurants in the old city as well on Rani Lakshmi Bai Marg, near Tulsi Theatre.

Tunde Ke Kebab in the Chowk is supposed to be good. The cook/owner who actually started this place had only one arm -- tunde-- thus the name. Now after his death one of his helpers has taken over.