The Sardar Who Won Over Kochi's Tummy

'We are Indians irrespective whether we are Punjabi, Gujarati, Bengali, Malayali or Tamilian.'
'I am the best example of this integration.'

Mohinder Singh, co-owner of the Sethi Da Dhaba restaurant in Kochi, put out a reel in Malayalam celebrating its 10th anniversary.

In it, he tells the story, in Malayalam, about how the restaurant began and the type of food that is served.

Mohinder said they don't use ajinomoto, colours, harmful chemicals, palm oil or groundnuts.

'The food should be healthy, apart from being tasty,' he said, and added, 'The most popular cuisine among Malayalis is Punjabi.'

The video went viral, boosted the restaurant's visibility and drew new customers. The stunner for viewers was to see a Sardar speak Malayalam fluently.

Malayalis worldwide, from the USA to Australia, called Mohinder and expressed their admiration for his linguistic skills. One Malayali told Mohinder, 'It feels like a dream.'

Mohinder says his fluency in Malayalam happened by accident. As a child, he was mischievous.

Many schools expelled him because of indiscipline. In the end, he landed up at St Albert's School.

The students comprised Malayalis, who were more fluent in the vernacular language than English. So Mohinder learned to speak Malayalam like a native.

At the restaurant, Mohinder confirmed that 90 percent of his customers are Malayalis. "We have earned the trust of customers," he says.

Mohinder pauses and says, "We are doing this as a tribute to our mother. We want to make her happy. Hence, we are determined to provide the highest quality of food. That way, we will receive the blessings of our parents."

How Sethi da Dhaba began

In 2013, Mohinder's mother Satwant Kaur, a foodie, almost lost her life because of a cardiac ailment.

When she recovered, she told her sons that she had a dream. They should start a restaurant in Kochi that serves authentic Punjabi dishes.

Her husband was in the automobile business. None of the four sons knew anything about the restaurant business.

On the morning of January 1, 2014, Satwant told Mohinder she was feeling unwell and needed to go to the hospital.

Mohinder, who was celebrating New Year's Day, said, 'Mother, there's nothing to worry about. You are fine.'

That night, the 72 year old died of a heart attack in front of Mohinder. Guilt crushed him.

He had been looking after his parents for 25 years. So, this lapse became unforgivable.

After reflection, he decided he would try meditation or exercise. He adopted weightlifting and did it for a few hours every day.

Every month he would go to Hazur Sahib, one of the five takhts (religious centres in Sikhism). The shrine is located in Nanded, Maharashtra.

It took him five years to overcome his sorrow. "I have to thank my family for their steadfast support," he says. "Weightlifting also helped me."

During this time, Mohinder made a promise to himself. He would fulfill his mother's dream.

On February 24, 2015, Mohinder, along with his brother Manjit, started the Sethi Da Dhaba restaurant in Kochi.

At that time, Punjabi cuisine did not feature on the cuisine palate of Malayalis.

Many were sceptical if the venture would be a success. Initially, there was only a trickle of customers. But the brothers never gave up.

Slowly, through word of mouth, the restaurant's name spread. Today, Sethi Da Dhaba is one of the leading eating places in Kochi.

On a bustling Monday afternoon, the restaurant boasted a crowd of varying ages.

On one side sat a senior citizen, savouring a plate of chicken Seekh Kebab and crisp Parathas.

In the middle were two career professionals, wearing ties and crisp white shirts sharing a meal. And on the other side, there was a middle-aged woman with two children in tow.

Mohinder had a radiant smile, as he moved between the tables, chatting with the guests.

On the walls, there are typewriters hanging, and paintings of farmers, trees and cows.

A jeep bonnet and tyres sit in an enclosure, while an old radio with black knobs rests on a glass shelf.

In one corner, one can see a green and white Bajaj Chetak scooter. Placed near the entrance is a photograph of the Golden Temple, Sikhism's holiest shrine.

"Manjit has a passion for collecting antiques," says Mohinder.

The yellow ceiling lights cast a cosy warmth while the aroma of tandoor-cooked dishes set the taste buds in motion.

In the reel, Mohinder spoke about a dish called Maharaja's Chicken. This dish was served to Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839) by his head chef, or khansama, Beliram who was regarded as the best cook of that era.

A few months ago, when Mohinder and his family traveled to Patiala, they met a fifth-generation descendant of Beliram. They had a conversation and got the recipe for the dish.

The chef marinates and grills the chicken in the tandoor for 25 minutes. Then, he cooks it in oil with fried onions, curd, and gravy, along with ghee.

The cooks prepare the dish as a semi-gravy. "We introduced this about a month ago," says Mohinder. "It's become very popular."

One of their most popular items is the Patiala Lassi. They serve it in a one-litre glass. It comprises curd, cardamom powder, sugar, pieces of almonds and pistachios. The taste is exceptional.

Asked about the cooking methods, Mohinder says they follow the traditional way. So when they make a dal, they keep the pulses in the tandoor (a large oven made of clay) the previous night.

They let it simmer, on a low flame, till the morning. For mutton, they use goat, not sheep, which is what most restaurants serve.

Asked the secret of good cooking, Mohinder says "Whatever you do, do it from the heart. Your intention should be pure. When you do things from the heart, you get blessings, appreciation, and peace of mind."

"The mind is always manipulative," he adds. "In the service sector, if you use only the mind, you cannot survive."

"The problem with the restaurant sector is that people cut costs and end up compromising on quality," says Mohinder.

While Manjit oversees the kitchen, Mohinder interacts with customers. On an average he interacts with 5,000 people every week.

"People's facial expressions and behaviour reflect the tensions in their lives," he says.

Asked about the Malayali mindset, Mohinder says, "Once you gain the trust of a Malayali, he will always believe you. Sometimes, customers will tell me, 'Sardarji, we are six people. You know how much quantity we will need. Bring what you like'."

Mohinder ensures he brings a little less, so all the food is eaten. "You should not take their trust for granted," he ays

Sometimes, there are humorous interactions. One film director told Mohinder that in two Mollywood superhits, Punjabi House, and 'Mallu Singh, Malayali actors played Punjabis.

'They were duplicate Sardarjis,' the director told Mohinder. 'Now we want to put an authentic Sardarji like you in a film when there is a Punjabi character.'

The family has a sterling reputation in Kochi, first established by their father, Harbans Singh Sethi.

Mohinder's father, Harbans Singh Sethi, an IAS officer, was a senior officer at the Food Corporation of India in Chandigarh.

One day, in 1964, Pachakari Mohammed, a prominent iron dealer from Kochi, met the senior Sethi in his office.

They developed a rapport. Mohammed invited Harbans to come to Kerala for a visit.

In 1965, Harbans came to Kochi. "My father liked Kerala a lot with its greenery and peaceful environment," recalls Mohinder.

Harbans wanted to get into business. His father had been an entrepreneur all his life.

Mohammed encouraged Harbans and gave the family an apartment to stay. He took no rent for the next two years and provided logistical and other support.

Harbans took medical leave from the FCI, started a business in automobile parts called Bombay Auto Agency.

There was a struggle in the beginning, but soon it took off. So Harbans quit the IAS.

The family comprised his wife, four sons, and a daughter.

In 2006, Harbans Sethi died aged 74. Bombay Auto Agency is now run by the eldest son, Surinder. The youngest son Gurjeet also operates a spare parts shop.

Mohinder is married to Pawanjit Kaur, a native of Hyderabad. He has two sons, Sunny and Bunny.

Sunny, 24, has settled in Toronto, Canada. Bunny assists his father in the restaurant.

All in all, it has been a good life for Mohinder, a man who deeply enjoys his work and loves the interactions with a wide variety of people.

At Sethi Da Dhaba, amidst the clatter of steel plates, Mohinder leans forward and gently places his fingers on the glass frame of the Golden Temple photograph.

"God has been kind," he says.

Feature Presentation: Rajesh Alva/Rediff