The Hilsa is one of the boniest fish in the world (1,500 bones/kg approx; the Rohu has 100 bones/kg) but also one of the tastiest.
Swarupa Dutt on 8 ways to Hero the Hilsa.
After a ban, Bangladesh has now allowed the export of 1,200 tonnes of hilsa fish, ahead of Durga Puja. We believe Bengalis wept tears of joy as they get ready to welcome the queen of fish after which poetry, prose, literature is written.
So special is the hilsa that it features in football matches between the two legendary teams in West Bengal.
When East Bengal wins, fans bring home joda ilish (a pair of hilsas); when Mohun Bagan wins, it's lobsters.
Shorshe Ilish
Hilsa in mustard paste is easily the most popular preparation because it heroes the fish.
The fish steaks are marinated in mustard and green chilly paste and then simmered in a curry.
Drizzle with mustard oil and serve with steamed rice.
Bhapa Ilish
For steamed (bhapa) hilsa, the fish steaks are marinated in a paste of turmeric, salt, posto, green chillies, mustard, coconut and decorated with whole green chillies, a smidgen of chopped coriander, a drizzle of mustard oil, and steamed in a tightly sealed container.
Steaming keeps the fish tender, flaky and decidedly yum.
Ilish Paturi
Hilsa in a banana leaf is like the Parsi Patrani Macchi but because the fish and the condiments are entirely different, so is the taste.
The fish steaks are coated in spices, mustard paste, then individually wrapped/sealed in a banana leaf and cooked, covered, in a dry pan till done.
Ilish Bhaja
Hilsa steaks are shallow fried in mustard oil until slightly crisp.
Since hilsa is a fatty fish, the fat renders into the oil deepening the taste. No masalas except haldi and salt.
Ilish Mach-er Jhol With Begun
Several Bengali fish curries (not just hilsa) use vegetables in them and this one with a tempering of kalonji, slit green chillies, brinjals is simple and a classic favourite.
Smoked Hilsa
The fish is smoked to impart a distinct flavour which also renders the fish boneless. Difficult to do at home, so try what is served at restaurants.
Ilish Pulao
Shallow-fried hilsa pieces are layered to make a pulao, with all the attendant masalas.
Ilish Mach-er Ambal
This is a sweet and sour fish curry favoured by the Ghotis or Bengalis from West Bengal as opposed to Bangals (Benglis from originally what was East Bengal) and is an acquired taste.