Little and large places across India are hubs of particular weaves of saris. On National Handloom Day, we explore India's famous sari towns.
Beautifully woven, using a 3-shuttle technique, in historic Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, from mulberry silk. According to local legends, the weavers are all descended from the master weaver of the gods, Rishi Markanda.
From the village of Bomkai, Ganjam, Odisha comes silk and cotton saris with characteristic motifs -- lotus, tortoise, temple, fish -- and special pallus. It is said it was introduced during the rule of Ramai Dev, who ruled from Patna.
Silk saris from the Bihar town are renowned for their smooth texture and lustrous finish. Centuries ago weavers in these parts specialised in working with certain dyeing techniques and using tussar (kosa) silk obtained from silkworms living in the wild.
Famous since Mughal days for weaving gold and silver threads into its rich silk to created zari-enhanced brocade. Persian-descent weavers, who migrated to Gujarat & then Benares, are the backbone of an industry that employs 1.2 million people.
The painstaking, traditional white-on-white embroidery technique, adorning soft muslin, that originated in Lucknow has its roots in Shiraz, Iran. It arrived at Indian shores in the 16th century.
Patan, Gujarat saris have attractive double ikat weaves. Initially colours from nature are used to dye tied silk threads to get a certain stunning pattern, which are woven into cloth. Maharashtrian Salvi caste weavers moved en masse in the 12th century to Gujarat for special kingly patronage.
A tiny hamlet in Madhya Pradesh powers this classical silk, silk-cotton and cotton weaving tradition that goes back, some believe to at least 13th century AD. Each sari has a signature gold sari border and often geometric designs.
Maharashtra's finest sari, produced in Yeola in Paithan, Sambhajinagar district, is famous for its thick fabric, peacocks, intricate zari, long history (maybe 2nd century BC), prices. Called a dev vastra or clothes of the gods, its heaviness comes from the amount of gold used.
Weaving Maheshwari-style saris -- famous for its reversible pallu with its signature 5 stripes -- began along the banks of the holy Narmada in the town of Maheshwar in the 18th century. Mahrani Ahilyabai Holkar is credited with inspiring the art.