The vegetarian section at a Bengali wedding is always lonely, but Swarupa Dutt/Rediff says there are some popular Bengali veg dishes that can give mutton, prawns and fish, a run for their money.
Paneer is conspicuous by its absence, because there are at least three dozen more veg dishes that shine. The other 24, dear reader, is for another day…
Bhaja Moong Dal/Roasted Moong Dal
We called this ‘party dal’ in my family. My mom always made it for guests. The trick is roasting the dal exactly right -- golden but not brown. Ginger, dry red chillies, whole jeera, cauliflower florets, peas comprise the tempering of flavourful, tasty Bhaja Moong Dal.
Potoler Dorma
Inspired by Turkish dolma, the guts of pointed gourds/padwal are scooped out & it's filled with either paneer or chana dal and almonds, kismis and spices, and fried. The non-veg version has fish or keema or prawns. The dormas are served in a curry.
Labra
12 vegetables converge making an incredibly delicious medley paired with khichuri and served as prasad during Durga puja, Saraswati puja, Laxmi puja. It’s easier to cook Kosha Mangsho or a mustard hilsa than a labra -- subtle flavours, vegetables al dente, but also mushy, none overpowering the other -- the queen of veggie dishes.
You know immediately that the cook is from west Bengal when you see their posto. They make this opiate of the masses runny. Nevertheless, posto is celebrated in a variety of recipes across the state and east Bengal (Bangladesh). Posto Bora (fritters), Alu Posto, Jhinga Posto (ridge gourd), Posto Baata (sort of like a chutney, drizzled with mustard oil and spiked with green chillies), Hilsa with posto etc.
Dhoka-r Dalna
You will feel cheated if you don’t try this. Chana dal is made into cakes, then steamed and fried (dhoka) and added to a spicy gravy (dalna) with potatoes. It’s slightly tedious and reserved for special occasions.
Khichuri/Khichdi
Heavy rains, gusty winds, dark skies and a plate of khichuri is what make us go weak in the knees. Moong Khichuri with vegetables or masoor dal with only onions, peas, potatoes, tomatoes are slow cooked, not pressure-cooked, & served with dollops of ghee. On the side: Batter-fried brinjals, potatoes or pumpkin and/or omelette. Or with labra.
Luchis
Luchis or puris, made of maida (a little atta is added so that it’s not stretchy) are deep fried to a white, pillowy, light, oil-free roundel of goodness. Paired with Alu Dom or Kosha Mangsho or alu-cauliflower sabzi or even with Payesh and Kalakand (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it).
Shukto
Bengalis begin their multi-coursed meals with bitters and Shukto which is a melange of vegetables cut at an angle and made into a coconut-based curry with karela/bitter gourd and fried lentil dumplings (bodi). Requires years of practice to master. It is said that in the last century, a newly-wed bride’s first dish in her new home was Shukto, just so that the in-laws could test if she knew how to cook.
Mocha
Banana flowers are made into a ghonto (with potatoes, bodis and coconut), paturi (mocha with coconut, green chillies, mustard paste, steamed in a banana leaf), and chops (round, golden fried and crumbed the size of tennis balls).
Begun Bhaja
Winter’s seedless plump brinjals, cut two inches high, marinated with salt, turmeric, and deep fried in mustard oil, is all that you need to polish off a plateful of rice. Do not gild the lily with masalas.
Peyaj Koli Bhaja
Onion flowers, not spring onions, these are thicker, tubular, firmer and end in a bulb. Eaten stir-fried with potatoes or added to fish curry.
There is no concept of dal-rice being a Bengali comfort food. It’s always dal-rice-Alu Sheddo (mashed potatoes). The potatoes are boiled and mashed while still steaming (ensures no lumps), finely cut green chillies, onions added, and a generous drizzle of mustard oil. The Brit version needs to meet its Bengali counterpart, asap.
Chalkumro-r Bora Or White Pumpkin Dumplings
White pumpkin is cut into thin-ish half-moon or semicircle, slit in the middle so that it opens like a book and dunked in boiling water for a few minutes. Its then patted dry, stuffed with a paste of mustard, green chillies, posto, coconut, dipped in a rice flour batter and deep fried. D for delish..