10 WORST Ingredients For Skin and Hair

Zero parabens. Parfum. Phthalates. SLS...
Dr Ameesha Mahajan, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Eden Skin Clinic, tells you how to read labels and understand the hidden ingredients in the daily products you use that may be damaging your skin and hair.

Most people mindlessly buy skincare and hair care products because they are impressed with the packaging, the hefty price tag or the brand.

But the real secret is hidden in the product's ingredient list.

Many products contain ingredients that can annoy the skin or cause hormonal disturbances, weaken your hair due to long term use and/or weaken the skin's defence barrier. 

Let us look at the 10 harmful ingredients that you should recognise and try to avoid as much as possible as well as alternatives that are safer for you:

1. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)

Where it's found

In face cleansers, body washes, bubble bath for kids and adults, shampoos. 

Why it's damaging

SLS and SLES both are strong surfactants which mean they can lather and strip off oil from your skin and hair at the same time.

What makes them harmful is that they can't differentiate between real dirt and the skin's natural sebum.

The result:

• Stripping off the skin barrier
• Increased skin dryness and irritation
• Trigger skin redness or flakiness
• SLS has the tendency to remove too much oil, making the hair dry, dull and easy to break.

Healthier alternatives

Surfactants that are mild in nature such as coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside and sulfate free blends work better.

2. Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, ethyl)

Where it's found

In body lotions, hair conditioners, skin serums. 

Why it's damaging 

Parabens are actually antimicrobial in nature and known to inhibit bacterial growth.

However, research has shown that they also tend to mimic oestrogen in the body, causing hormonal disruptions if used for a long time.

When they settle deeper in the body's tissues, they can also cause sensitivity. 

Healthier alternatives

Choose products preserved with phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate or ethylhexylglycerin.

3. Alcohol Denat (denatured alcohol)

Where it's found: Toners, sprays, some cleansers and gels.

Why it's damaging 

Alcohol denat evaporates quickly, leaving a temporary 'tight' feel.

But it also strips away the skin's natural moisture barrier, leading to the following symptoms:

• Dry skin
• Sensitivity
• Increased fine lines
• Dry and frizzy hair

Healthier alternatives

Seek out fatty alcohols like cetyl, cetearyl and stearyl that are actually moisturising.

4. Fragrance (synthetic fragrance/parfum)

Where it's found

In perfumed lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners.

Why it's damaging 

'Fragrance' on a label can be a catch-all term for dozens of undisclosed chemicals, many of which can cause the following:

• Trigger allergic reactions
• Irritate sensitive skin
• Cause headaches or respiratory irritation
• Increase the overall irritation potential of a product.

Healthier alternatives

Look for unscented or products scented with essential oils (if you can tolerate it).

5. Phthalates

Where it's found

In fragrances, hair sprays, gels, styling products.

Why it's damaging 

Phthalates help scents stick around longer and keep formulas flexible. However, they can act as endocrine disruptors, potentially affecting a body's hormonal balance.

Healthier alternatives

Avoid products listing 'fragrance' or 'parfum' without a clear breakdown of the ingredients. Opt for brands that specifically label their products as phthalate-free.

6. Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

Where it's found

In shampoos, conditioners, body washes, cosmetics.

Why it's damaging 

Formaldehyde is a known preservative but also a recognised irritant and potential carcinogen. Some preservatives slowly release formaldehyde to kill bacteria.

Here's what you should be looking for

• DMDM Hydantoin
• Quaternium-15
• Imidazolidinyl urea
• Diazolidinyl urea

Repeated exposure to the above can cause irritation, redness and possibly allergic reactions.

Healthier alternatives

Non-formaldehyde preservatives like phenoxyethanol, benzoates and sorbates.

7. Polyethylene glycols (PEGs)

Where it's found 

In creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners.

Why it's damaging

PEGs help products feel smooth and enhance absorption. But they can be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both potential carcinogens.

They also weaken the skin barrier by increasing permeability. It's not ideal for compromised or sensitive skin.

Healthier alternatives

Look for products without PEGs or ensure they're from brands with strict purification and testing standards.

8. Silicones (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane)

Where it's found 

Hair serums, conditioners, moisturisers.

Why it's damaging

Silicones can make skin and hair feel instantly smooth.

But they can also do the following:

• Create a coating that can trap dirt and sebum
• Prevent deep hydration
• Increase buildup on scalp and hair

This makes the hair look dull, blocks the hair follicles and causes flakiness. 

Healthier alternatives

For hair, you may use light conditioning agents or plant based oils such as argan, jojoba or coconut.

For skin, you can look for formulas with hyaluronic acid, glycerine and ceramides instead.

9. Mineral oil and petrolatum (in non-pharmaceutical grades)

Where it's found

In lotions, creams, ointments.

Why it's damaging

Mineral oil and petrolatum create a barrier on the skin.

In pharmaceuticals, they're safe and effective (like in ointments). But when you use them as cosmetics for daily use, it causes the following risks:

• It could be incompletely purified
• It may trap bacteria and dead skin 
• It can cause breakouts in acne-prone skin

Healthier alternatives 

It stays better to use plant oils such as jojoba, rosehip or squalane and go for lipids containing products such as cholesterol (a vital skin-identical lipid that is naturally present in your skin's outermost layer -- the stratum corneum) and ceramides that strengthen the skin barrier. 

10. Synthetic colours (Food drugs and cosmetics (FD&C), Drugs and cosmetic colours (D&C))

Where it's found

In makeup, lotions, haircare, some shampoos and masks.

Why it's damaging

The addition of colour is just for adding aesthetic. Most of them can cause skin irritation and sensitivity as they are derived from coal tar. 

Healthier alternatives

Look for products consisting of natural pigments such as the ones derived from plants or iron oxide, etc, as they are gentler on the skin. 

Your skin and hair are living tissues that respond to what you put on them.

Though some ingredients such as mild odours or silicones might not be actually harmful, others such as sulphates, parabens or formaldehyde releasers can result in skin irritation, hormonal imbalances and skin barrier damage. 

If you are careful and read labels, you can opt for what's best for your skin and hair instead of just choosing something that looks good on a shelf.

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