Recipe: Traditional Thalassery Biryani

The debate on which is India's best biryani never ends.

Is the fragrant nawabi Bengali rice-mutton preparation with the ubiquitous potatoes the finest?

Or Hyderbadi's tradition of slow-cooked biryani, high on spice?

And what about Tamil Nadu' Dindigul biryani?

Quite obviously you have not encountered the deliciously aromatic Thalassery or Moplah Biryani from the seaside town of Thalassery, a maritime trade centre in north Kerala.

This biryani, resplendent with ghee, spices and meat, usually chicken, is a testament to the diverse cultural influences and traditions of this region. The dish is believed to have been created by the Mapilla Muslim community, after integrating Arabian and Mughal influences with local ingredients.

Cooked using a dum technique, where the rice, prepared separately, is layered over the chicken masala and kept under dum, sealing the vessel with dough, heat is evenly applied from both, the top and below.

A distinct attribute of this dish, is the short-grained jeerakashala or khaima rice, which absorbs the flavours perfectly and sets it apart from other biryanis across India, which typically make use of the long-grain basmati rice.

The spice blend in the biryani also makes a difference. Khada or whole garam masala, of which star anise and Thalassery pepper, are prominent, render the characteristic fragrance, apart from other spices like cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom.

Onion, ginger, garlic, lime, yoghurt, coriander and mint leaves, are some of the other ingredients that may be used. It is usually served with a yoghurt side dish of pachadi or raita, made from chopped onions, cucumber, green chillies, dahi, along with sides of pickle and papad.

Every household in this town/area of Kerala has its own coveted recipe and Thalassery Biryani is an integral part of special occasions and festivals like Eid and Christmas.

Adrika Anand speaks to Chef Latha K S for her recipe of this grand biryani. The chef de cuisine at Malabar Café, Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty, she is known for her authentic South Indian cuisine and her dishes 'that carry the warmth of a Kerala kitchen'.

Biryanis, traditional vegetarian feasts, chutneys, pickles, payasams are her forte. She is the author of Latha Pachakam and has appeared on food shows aired on Malayalam television channels. She believes in using fresh ingredients, local spices, and cooking with love.

Thalassery Biryani

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients

• 1 kg chicken, biryani cut
• 4-6 tbsp ghee or coconut oil + 2 tbsp extra ghee for serving
• 4 large onions, thinly sliced
• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 4-5 green chillies, slit lengthwise
• ½ cup yoghurt
• Salt to taste, about 1½ tsp
• ½ tsp haldi or turmeric powder
• 1½ tsp brown dhania or coriander powder
• 1 tsp garam masala powder
• ½ tsp black pepper powder

For the rice:

• 2 cups kaima or jeerakasala rice
• 3½ or 4 cups water for making the rice
• 4 pods green elaichi or cardamom
• 4 lavang or cloves
• 1 piece star anise, optional
• 1-inch piece dalcheeni or cinnamon
• 1 tej patta or bay leaf
• Salt to taste, about 1½ tsp

For the layering (assembly):

• 10 cashews, fried + extra for garnish 
• 10 raisins, fried

For serving:

• Deep-fried onions or birasta (from 1 large onion)
• ½ cup chopped fresh green dhania or coriander leaves or cilantro
• ½ cup chopped fresh mint

Method

For the chicken masala:

• Heat the ghee or coconut oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan.
  Sauté the onions till golden brown.
  Add the ginger-garlic paste; cook until the raw smell disappears.
  Add the green chillies, chopped tomatoes and cook till soft.
  Add the turmeric, coriander, garam masala, pepper, salt.
  Cook until the oil separates.
  Add the chicken and cook covered until 90 per cent done.
  Add the yoghurt, ½ of the mint, ½ of the coriander leaves.
  Mix and cook until the chicken is fully done and the gravy thickens slightly.
• Keep aside.

For the rice:

• Wash and soak the kaima rice for 20 minutes.
• In a separate saucepan, boil the water with the salt and the whole spices.
  Add the soaked rice and cook till 90 per cent done.
  Drain immediately.
  Keep aside.

For the dum cooking:

• Using a biryani pot or large heavy-bottomed saucepan, spread a layer of chicken masala at the bottom.
  Add a layer of rice over it.
  Sprinkle fried onions, cashews, raisins and some of the remaining mint and some of the remaining coriander.
• Repeat the layers.
  End with the rice and garnish (fried onions) on top.
  Drizzle 2 tbsp ghee.
• Cover tightly and dum cook over low heat for 20 minutes.
  Gently mix before serving.

Onion-Cucumber Pachadi Or Raita

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients

• 1 cup plain yoghurt
• ½ cup finely-chopped cucumber
• ½ cup finely-chopped onions
• 1 green chilly, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh green dhania or coriander leaves or cilantro or 2 tbsp chopped mint leaves
• ½ tsp roasted jeera or cumin powder, optional
• Salt to taste, about 1 tsp

Method

• Whisk the yoghurt until smooth.
  Mix in the cucumber, onion, green chillies, green coriander/mint, cumin powder, salt.
• Chill before serving.

Chef Latha K S is based in Kochi.

• REDIFF FOOD