Rain and road trips go hand in hand in Maharashtra.
For countless travellers, the season isn't complete without a plate of steaming-hot Kanda Bhaji on a jaunt to Karjat at Thakare Hotel.
As relentless showers drench and green the Sahyadris, folks set off towards Karjat or Matheran and the nearby trekking trails.
But before the hills come into view, many travellers make this essential stop to order a plate of onion pakoras, the undisputed star of Thakare's menu.
Hemantkumar Shivsharan, a pro at sniffing out the recipes of the best roadside foods, secures the magical recipe.
Owned by Ramdas Thakare, the roadside eatery has built a reputation, over 20 years, that extends far beyond Karjat.
What started as a modest stall has today become one of Maharashtra's recognised highway food destinations, evidenced by the hungry crowds it attracts, throughout the year, especially during the rainy season, be they tourists, trekkers, bikers and families.
About five years ago, the original eatery had to make way for a road-widening project. Today, the new outlet at Char Phata continues the legacy without changing the recipes customers have come to love.
The new location is larger and more convenient, yet it still retains the charm of a typical 'highway-touch' Maharashtrian eatery where fresh snacks are prepared continuously throughout the day.
The menu may be to the point, but every item has its own fan following. Signature dishes: Thakare Special Kanda Bhaji, Palak Bhaji, Vada Pav, Thakare Special Mataki Misal, along with tea, coffee, cold drinks.
Before it became synonymous with its famous Kanda Bhaji, Thakare Hotel had a much simpler beginning.
Around 1998 or 1999, it started as a modest upahargruh (refreshment room) serving traditional Zunka Bhakri under the government's Zunka Bhakri scheme. When the scheme was discontinued, many eateries shut down.
Ramdas Thakare chose a different path. Instead of shutting shop, he reinvented the menu, introducing freshly-made Kanda Bhaji and Vada Pav. The move proved transformative. Travellers quickly delighted in his crisp onion fritters and other affordable snacks and the pit stop rapidly grew into one of the most recognised food places on the Karjat route.
The kitchen's scale reflects the popularity.
Every day, nearly 10-15 sacks (25 kg each) of onions and besan (chickpea) are used, with consumption climbing even higher during the rainy season and on weekends.
The mountains of chopped onions and vats of batter metamorphise into golden bhajis non-stop from morning till evening.
The news of the restraurant's popularity has travelled from one traveller to another for decades. Ask anyone who frequently drives towards Karjat and they'll probably tell you the same thing -- skipping Thakare means missing one of the route's best food stops.
Location: Thakare Hotel (Char Phata New Branch) Karjat-Matheran Road (Char Phata), Karjat, Maharashtra
Time: 7.30 am to 8.30 pm
Best Time To Visit: During the monsoon, when hot bhajis, cool mountain air and steaming chai come together to create one of Maharashtra's most memorable roadside food experiences.
Here's a classic Maharashtrian version inspired by Thakare Hotel's famous Kanda Bhaji:
Kanda Bhaji Thakare-Style
Serves: 2-3
Ingredients
- 6 medium onions, about 380 gm, sliced
- 1½ cups + 2 tbsp besan or chickpea flour/gram flour
- ¾ cup rice flour
- ¾ cup finely chopped coriander leaves
- 3 green chillies, finely chopped, optional
- 1½ tsp dhana-jeeru or ground coriander-cumin powder
- ¾ tsp haldi or turmeric powder
- ¾ tsp red chilly powder
- Salt to taste, about 3 tsp
- Oil, for deep frying the pakoras
Method
- Place the sliced onions in a large bowl.
Sprinkle in the salt and massage gently with your hands.
Keep aside for 10-15 minutes until the onions release their natural moisture.
Add the chopped coriander, green chillies, turmeric, red chilly powder, dhana jeeru.
Toss everything together so the onions are evenly coated with the masalas. - Mix in the rice flour, followed by the besan.
Add only enough besan for the onions to bind together.
Do not add water.
The moisture released from the onions should be sufficient to form a light coating. - Allow the mixture to rest for another 10 minutes.
If it appears too wet, sprinkle in a little extra besan. - Heat oil in a deep saucepan or a kadhai over medium-high heat.
To test the temperature, drop in a tiny portion of the mixture; it should sizzle and rise immediately. - Drop small handfuls of the onion mixture into the hot oil without pressing tightly.
Fry in batches, gently turning until evenly cooked and deep golden brown, about 4-6 minutes. - Drain on a wire rack or paper towels and serve immediately.
- Served piping hot with spicy dry garlic chutney, green chutney and a cup of aromatic masala tea -- it's exactly the kind of comfort food that rainy weather demands.
Maharashtrian Kitchen Tip
- The hallmark of an authentic Maharashtrian Kanda Bhaji is its light, lacy crunch. Instead of preparing a wet batter, the onions are first salted and allowed to release their own moisture. This natural liquid binds the besan just enough to coat every strand, while rice flour creates the signature crisp texture. Always fry the bhajis as loose clusters rather than tightly packed balls, allowing the edges to become beautifully golden and crunchy.
Photographs, Video, Text, and Presentation: Hemantkumar Shivsharan/Rediff
