At sunset, in Vashi, Navi Mumbai, a modest roadside stall, near the entrance of General Arun Kumar Vaidya Kala Kendra, quietly draws a steady stream of endless customers -- office-goers, students, families, regulars, children after an evening at the playground.
It is the irresistible aroma of freshly-fried Palak Bhajiyas that brings them all there.
Pandurang Shyamrao Patil's wee establishment is a hidden gem.
Most have discovered his yummy bhajiyas by way of whispered recommendations and friends insisting, "You have to try this place!"
This secret is 28 years old.
Patil has been serving these crisp, golden pakodas for nearly three decades and earned a devoted following purely through word of mouth.
His stall stays open from 5 pm to 8.30 pm, and on most days the snacks disappear long before closing time.
Pandurang's journey into street food began long before he owned the Vashi stall. He spent five years working as a helper at another food shop, learning everything from selecting fresh vegetables to mixing the perfect batter and managing customers during the evening rush.
Armed with enough experience and confidence, Patil started his own enterprise in 1998.
"I wanted people to enjoy simple, fresh food made honestly, every day," he says, and 28 years later that philosophy remains unchanged.
Every morning, he heads to Vashi's APMC Market, choosing only fresh, organic spinach. Since the stall functions in the evenings, he buys around nine to 10 bunches daily, just enough to ensure every customer gets bhajiyas made with the freshest of leaves.
Helping him each evening is Sachin Patil, who keeps the orders moving along, while the kadhai bubbles with batch after batch of spinach fritters.
The menu is small. Along with the famous palak bhajiyas, customers can also sample Vada Pav and bread cutlets, both favourites among regulars. Yet it is the bhajiyas that have become the stall's signature dish, appeal coming from their simplicity.
Large spinach leaves are dipped into precisely seasoned besan (gram flour/chickpea) batter and fried till just the right crispy.
Served straight out of the hot oil with spicy green chutney and fried green chillies, every bite is memorable.
Over the years, prices have fluctuated, but Pandurang's commitment to quality and value remains unchanged.
When he opened the stall, a Vada Pav sold for ₹2.50, while a plate of bhajiyas went for ₹6. Today, customers pay ₹15 for the Vada Pav and ₹40 for the palak bhajiyas, making it one of Vashi's most affordable evening treats.
Location: General Arunkumar Vaidya Kala Kendra and Playground, Sector 10, Vashi
Time: 5.00 pm to 8.30 pm
The stall has never relied on advertisements or social media. Its popularity has grown organically, one satisfied customer at a time. So much so that former residents return whenever they are in Vashi for a familiar taste of the bhajiyas that they've loved for years.
If you can't make it to Patil's, here's a version you can recreate at home.
Palak Bhajiyas
Serves: 4-5
Ingredients
- 10-12 large spinach leaves, washed well, finely chopped
- 2 onions, sliced
- 1½ cups besan or chickpea flour/gram flour
- 1 tsp red chilly powder
- ½ tsp haldi or turmeric powder
- 1 tsp brown dhania or coriander powder
- ½ tsp jeera or cumin powder
- 1 tsp crushed ajwain or carom seeds
- Pinch hing or asafoetida
- Salt to taste, about 1 tsp
- Pinch baking soda, optional
- About ¾ cup water
- Oil for deep frying the bhajiyas
Method
- Heat oil in a deep saucepan or a kadhai over medium-high heat.
- In a large bowl, add the besan, chilly powder, turmeric, coriander powder, cumin powder, ajwain, hing, salt.
Slowly whisk in the water until you get a thick, smooth batter that can eventually coat the spinach leaves well.
Stir in the baking soda just before frying, if using. - Dip the chopped spinach and the onion slices into the batter, coating evenly.
- Test the heat of the oil by dropping a little batter into it -- it should sizzle and rise to the surface of the oil.
- Fry the bhajiyas in batches, dropping small portions into the hot oil and let sizzle undisturbed for 2 minutes, then flip gently.
Fry until golden and crisp.
Adjust the batter with a sprinkle of water if you want softer bhajiyas.
Drain onto a paper towel-lined plate and serve immediately with green chutney and fried green chillies.
The Secret Behind The Crunch
- Fresh spinach makes all the difference. The batter should be thick enough to cling to the chopped spinach leaves and onion slices without dripping, and the oil should be moderately hot. Frying over medium heat allows the coating to become evenly crisp while keeping the spinach tender inside.
Photographs, Video, Text and Presentation: Hemantkumar Shivsharan/Rediff
