Behind The Runway: The Crisis Designers Are Facing Right Now

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April 01, 2026 13:59 IST

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The world of fashion may don a glamorous face but it hides the crisis that designers are quietly grappling with currently.

From rising raw material costs to delays in sourcing fabrics and yarn, the ripple effects of the ongoing Middle East conflict are being felt across the fashion industry.

Rediff's Rishika Shah spoke to designers to understand how they are adapting and their answers reveal a clear shift towards more mindful, less wasteful fashion.

Aisha Rao: Made to order is the new normal

Aisha Rao with her showstopper, Khushi Kapoor

IMAGE: Aisha Rao with her showstopper, Khushi Kapoor, at the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI 2026. Photograph: Kind courtesy Lakme Fashion Week/Instagram

For Designer Aisha Rao, the shift has been towards self-reliance and mindful production.

With processes like dyeing heavily dependent on resources, she's moving away from bulk inventory.

Instead, her label is focusing on made-to-order pieces, producing only when required. Even on the runway at the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI, sustainability was stitched into the collection -- parts of showstopper Khushi Kapoor's outfit crafted using leftover embroidery scraps.

 

Ritika Mirchandani: Cutting down the waste

Ritika Mirchandani with her showstopper, Shanaya Kapoor

IMAGE: Ritika Mirchandani with her showstopper, Shanaya Kapoor, at the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI 2026. Photograph: Kind courtesy Lakme Fashion Week/Instagram

Designer Ritika Mirchandani keeps it simple: Reduce, reuse, rethink. 

With shortages affecting everyone, her approach has been to minimise wastage whenever possible.

It is a small but significant shift that reflects a larger industry-wide change.

 

Anjali Patel Mehta: Design, but make it intentional

Anjali Patel Mehta with her showstopper, Diana Penty

IMAGE: Anjali Patel Mehta with her showstopper, Diana Penty, at the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI 2026. Photograph: Kind courtesy Lakme Fashion Week/Instagram

Calling it a challenge that will impact the entire design community, Verandah's Anjali Patel Mehta highlights how deeply the crisis runs, from yarn shortages to disrupted global logistics.

With routes like the Strait of Hormuz under strain, securing raw materials has become increasingly difficult. Her solution? Plan better, produce less and design with intent.

"Don't overproduce, don't overpromise," she stresses, adding that mindful creation is the only way forward in uncertain times.

 

Maurizio Grioli: Tech to the rescue

Maurizio Grioli, dean, Pearl Academy

Photograph: Hitesh Harisinghani/Rediff

While the impact hasn't fully hit yet, Maurizio Grioli, the dean at design institute Pearl Academy, believes it's only a matter of time. But instead of waiting, he's already experimenting.

At his Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI show, he used AI to present a mix of digital and physical garments, allowing audiences to view more designs without actually producing them all.

The idea? Reduce material usage, cut down production and let buyers choose what actually needs to be made.

If there's one takeaway from the runway this season, it's that crisis is pushing creativity.

Whether it's made-to-order fashion, reduced waste or tech-driven showcases, designers are being forced to slow down and think smarter.

In 2026, sustainability isn't just a buzzword' it's the key to survival.