Born from the kitchens of the Nattukottai Chettiars, the Chettinad style of cooking, as it is called, is prepared with roasted and freshly-ground, usually stone-pounded, spices boasting bold, aromatic flavours which are well-balanced.
Black pepper plays an important role.
Star anise, cinnamon, cloves and others -- the result of Chettiars having been traders and travellers -- joined the local repertoire of spices of cardamom, black pepper, turmeric, chillies, ginger, cumin seeds.
Vegetarian dishes form the core of Chettinad cuisine, as Chettiars were originally vegetarians from the ancient port town of Kaveripoompattinam. Contrary to popular belief, non-vegetarian dishes are not eaten on a daily basis in most homes.
Traditionally served on a banana leaf, a Chettinad feast unfolds through an odd-numbered spread, five, seven or 11 dishes, celebrating ritual.
Adrika Anand sources from Saiju Thomas the famous Chettinad-style chicken preparation, rich with freshly-roasted spices and slow-simmered depth -- Chettinad Kozhi Thirakkal. Thomas is the corporate general manager, culinary, at Visalam, a CGH Earth hotel in Chettinad.
She presents a recipe of Kavuni Arisi Sweet, a Chettinad black rice dessert from Chef Mahendran Gunasekaran, who has launched House of Chettinad in Leander, Texas.
Says Gunasekaran about the sweet: "It's a rare heirloom recipe from Chettinad, traditionally served at weddings and celebratory feasts. Kavuni arisi is an ancient variety of black rice native to Tamil Nadu, prized for its nutty aroma, deep colour and natural sweetness. In Chettinad homes, this dessert is prepared patiently, allowing the rice to bloom fully and release its rich, earthy flavour."
Chettinad Kozhi Thirakkal
Recipe by Saiju Thomas
Serves: 3-4
Ingredients
- 1 kg chicken, cut into curry pieces
- 100 gm sambar onions or cheriya ulli or shallots, crushed
- 200 gm onions, sliced
- 150 gm tomatoes, chopped
- 1 tbsp ginger, crushed
- 1½ tbsp garlic, crushed
- 3 green chillies, cut lengthwise or chopped
- 5 gm dry red chillies
- ½ tbsp haldi or turmeric powder
- 1½ tbsp red chilly powder
- 1½ tbsp brown dhania or coriander powder
- 1 tsp black pepper powder
- 5 gm mixed whole spices, like green elaichi or cardamom, laung or cloves, black peppercorns, tej patta or bay leaf
- 1 pinch kalpasi or pathar/dagad phool or black stone flower
- 4-5 curry leaves
- Salt to taste, about 2 tsp
- 200 ml water
- 150 ml gingelly or sesame oil
For the coconut paste:
- 150 gm fresh coconut
- 1 tsp sonf or fennel seeds
- 1 small stick dalcheeni or cinnamon
- 1 tbsp khuskhus or poppy seeds
- Pinch kalpasi
Method
- In a mixer, grind all the coconut paste ingredients till it's a smooth masala paste.
Keep aside. - Warm a saucepan or a kadhai over medium heat and add half the gingelly oil.
Add the whole spices, kalpasi, dry red chillies.
Sauté for a few seconds until aromatic.
Add the crushed shallots, sliced onions, green chillies, tomatoes.
Sauté until well browned.
Add the ginger, half of the garlic, sautéing until the raw aroma disappears.
Add the salt, chicken, and sauté for a few minutes until the chicken is well coated with the masala.
Add the red chilly powder, coriander powder, turmeric powder.
Sauté for 2–3 minutes more.
Pour in the water, cover and cook for 7-10 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
Add in the coconut paste, reduce the heat, and cook slowly until the gravy thickens. - Finish by adding the black pepper powder, remaining gingelly oil, remaining crushed garlic, curry leaves on top.
Ensure the gravy is thick and well-coated with oil before taking off heat.
Kavuni Arisi Sweet or Chettinad Black Rice Dessert
Recipe by Chef Mahendran Gunasekaran
Serves: 4-5
Ingredients
- 1 cup kavuni arisi or black rice, available for purchase online
- Water
- 1½ cups full-fat milk
- ½ cup or 1 cup jaggery, powdered
- ½ tsp green elaichi or cardamom powder
- 2 tbsp ghee
- 10-12 cashews, broken
- 1 tbsp raisins
- ¼ cup thick coconut milk, optional but traditional
- Pinch edible camphor, optional, for ceremonial use
Method
- Wash the kavuni arisi thoroughly and soak in plenty of water for 10-12 hours or overnight.
This step is essential. - Drain the soaked rice and cook in a pressure cooker with 3 cups water for 5-6 whistles or cook in an open saucepan until the grains split and turn soft.
The rice should be fully cooked but not mushy. - Lightly mash the cooked rice using the back of a ladle to release its starch while still retaining texture.
Add the milk and simmer on low heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the powdered jaggery and mix well.
Continue to cook over low heat until the jaggery dissolves completely and the mixture thickens slightly.
Add in the cardamom powder and the coconut milk, if using.
Simmer for another 5 minutes and take off heat. - Meantime, heat the ghee in a small frying pan.
Fry cashews in the ghee until golden.
Then add in the raisins and immediately take off heat and pour over the kavuni arisi.
Add the edible camphor if using.
Let the dessert rest for 10 minutes to allow flavors to settle.
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