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Mountain glory
After a day's break for acclimatisation -- we were now close to 9,000 feet above sea level -- we headed for Har Ki Dun, a 7.4 mile walk up from Seema. It was almost a breeze, because Irbir was a much better guide, and was always by the side of whoever had fallen behind, or whoever had strayed off the trail.
He knew which fruits were edible, and pointed out flowers along the way, telling us which peak was Bandarpunch (20,721.8 feet), which was Black Peak (20,954.7 feet) and which way was Bali Pass, the way to Yamunotri. By the time we reached Har Ki Dun, the forests had given way to lush green bugyals -- Himalayan meadows above the tree line -- that will make the most hardened cynic believe in the divine.
• Airfare for Rs 599 and less!
The Har Ki Dun GMVN guesthouse is too good to be true, miles from human inhabitation, in the lap of the Swargarohini, Atta peak, and the Har Ki Dun peak. Everything was obscured by clouds by the time we reached, and it was very, very cold.
One of us was came down with altitude sickness, and we plied her with the lone bottle of brandy we were carrying as an emergency measure, making her wear all our warm clothes, and gleefully taking pictures of her in that sorry state -- it was revenge of sorts, because she was so at ease walking that we had named her Fearless Nadia. Now she was Not So Fearless Nadia, we cackled. The next day she was back in peak form, leading the pack wherever we went.
In the morning, Har Ki Dun revealed herself to us in all her high mountain glory, with nary a cloud in sight till noon.
Text and Photographs: Sumit Bhattacharya
Also read: Paradise is not that far away
Share YOUR travel stories and pix!
Have you been to Har Ki Dun? What was your favourite sight there? Where did you have the best meal? Do you have a hotel to recommend?
Do post details on the message board below so other readers can benefit from your advice. Remember to add information on what was special about the restaurant, hotel or sight you visited, along with relevant telephone numbers and addresses.
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