Rajasthan- The land of princes...of legends... of glory...

Umaid Bhawan took 15 years to complete and consumed 2,500,000 cubic feet of sandstone and marble, from the top of its colossal dome down to its basement indoor swimming pool. The interiors are a striking combination of art deco and beaux arts, set off by huge murals on Indian mythological themes by the celebrated Polish artist, Norblin, who spent several years as a guest of the Maharaja.

Traditionally, the economy of Rajasthan depended mainly on its livestock, agriculture and handicrafts. In medieval times, interestingly, military conquest gave a major economic boost to the region, when the Rajput warrior kings came back from their military campaigns all over India, bearing the prizes of war. In the modern period a major economic landmark was the building of the farsighted Ganga Canal Irrigation project in the 1920s and 1930s, which turned the arid desert of the northeast into prime farmland. Since 1947, several other major irrigation projects have followed suit. Also, since 1947, a substantial industrial base has been built in the state, spanning everything from synthetic yarn to zinc, from automotive products to electronic equipment. Another important -- and growing -- contributor to the state's economy, of course, is tourism. It is also believed that a major source of natural gas lies below Rajasthan's desert sands, waiting to be tapped.

Everything at Umaid Bhawan is conceived on a grand scale, from the Maharaja's private suite, with its spectacular black marble art deco bathroom to the banquet hall, designed for banquets for a thousand people. Incidentally at such a banquet, the catering logistics were so perfect that, as old palace retainers proudly recall today, the soup was always piping hot at the beginning and the ice cream was always deliciously frozen at the end.

What puts a slightly different perspective on the opulence of Umaid Bhawan is the strange story of why it was built in the first place. There was a major famine in Jodhpur in the 1920s, and Maharaja Umaid Singh, a remarkable farsighted ruler, initiated this project primarily as a public project to provide employment to the people of his kingdom, which -- if you think about it -- probably anticipated Lord Keynes' famous solution to the Great Depression by nearly a decade!

Life in Rajasthan, you will find, is full of surprises like this, around every corner.

Fast Facts

There are flights from Delhi and Bombay to Jaipur daily. And there are flights from Delhi and Bombay to Udaipur and Jodhpur six days a week. Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur are well connected by train from Delhi and Bombay.

Climate

The best time to visit Rajasthan is from late October till the end of February. The weather is cold, crisp, sunny and dry, with temperatures going down to 55 degrees Fahrenheit or 12 degrees Celsius. From early March it starts getting hot and the summer months of April, May and June are broiling hot with temperatures rising to 110 degrees Fahrenheit or 42 degrees Celsius with desert sandstorms. The monsoons comes in late June to early July and last till August, cooling things down somewhat.

Dress Sense

In winter make sure you bring a thick pullover and a warm jacket or, for women, a thick shawl. During the rest of the year, wear cool loose cotton clothes. For women short skirts or shorts are not recommended as they are considered slightly immodest; slacks or long skirts are best. Shoes should be easy to take off when you're visiting temples. Sunglasses are a must.

Health

Make sure you drink only bottled water or soft drinks. Be careful about where you eat. Make sure fresh fruit or vegetables are washed in potassium permanganate.

Cross Cultural Tips

The people of Rajasthan are polite in a formal and rather courtly manner. Learning to greet them with a namaste or with folded palms and adding the respectful suffix ji to their names, when addressing them will go a long way. Avoid open displays of affection between couples in public. Women should avoid a display of bare legs. Always take off your shoes at the entrance of a temple.

Rajasthan byApa Publications, 1994. An excellent guide to Rajasthan. It will tell you virtually everything you really need to know. Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan by Colonel James Tod, a Low Price Publication,1994. A definitive book on Rajasthan, its history and its legends. Written in the early 19th century, but never battered. It is three volumes are fairly heavy going, but certainly worth browsing through. India Handbook, published by Trade & Travel Handbooks, 1995. It contains an excellent chapter on Rajasthan. The book covers places of interest, festivals, geography, history, culture, religion and other practical information, with maps included. Jaipur: The Last Destination, India Book House, 1993. Takes the reader on a journey to the fascinating city of Jaipur. The history of a dynasty and a city is told in an illuminating narrative and lavishly presented with excellent photography, both contemporary and archival, many from the personal collection of the royal family. A Princess Remembers by Maharani Gayatri Devi and Samtha Rama Rau, published by Weidenfield & Nicholson, 1976. The personal memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur. A very evocative insight into the royal lifestyle. Maharana: The Story of the Rulers of Udaipur by Brian Masters, Mapin Publishing 1990. An interesting history of Udaipur and its Sisodia kings. The House of Marwar by Dhananjaya Singh, published by Roli Books, 1994. A history of Jodhpur and its Rathore dynasty. Very interesting material, though the writing style leaves something to be desired.

Where to stay

Wherever you go in Rajasthan, you'll find a wide choice of hotels to suit your budget ranging from the opulent and luxurious to the functional and Spartan. In between, but towards the upper end, are the heritage hotels, the old homes of Rajasthan's princes and chieftains that are now converted into hotels.

For an authentically Rajasthani experience, for ambience, hospitality and value for money, you simply cannot beat these, wherever you go in this region.

Where to eat

In Jaipur make sure you go for dinner to Choki Dhani, a unique ethnic food village about 10 miles out of town. Lakshmi Mishtan Bhandar offers savoury vegetarian snacks.

Reasonably good five star fare is available at Rambagh Palace, Jai Mahal Palace and the Rajputana Hotel.In Udaipur the best five star food is at the Lake Palace and Shiv Niwas Palace.

In Jodhpur you get good, but simple, Rajasthani food at Ajit Bhawan Palace. And reasonably good five star hotel food at Umaid Bhawan. If you're adventurous try the makhaniya lassi or rich frothy buttermilk near the Sadar Market and the mawe ki kachodi, a rich crumbly pastry typical of Jodhpur.

What to buy

In Jaipur precious and semiprecious stones are very reasonably priced here. Other good buys -- meenakari enamelled jewellery, chunky silver jewellery sold by weight, miniature paintings, traditional Rajasthani mojri slippers, carpets and bright hand printed cotton fabrics.
For really chic hand printed cotton fashions straight out of Vogue magazine, try Anokhi, an upmarket store on Tilak Marg.

In Udaipur traditional Pichhai paintings, colourful Rajasthani puppets and rustic Molela pottery are good choices. There are interesting handicrafts available at the little shops near the Jagdish Temple.

Jodhpur is the place for very interesting antiques and neo-antiques (!), authentic Jodhpur riding breeches, colourful hand printed cotton fabrics and traditional Rajasthani mojri slippers.

Cultural Activities

Rajasthan famed for its rich variety of folk dance and folk music forms. Each area has its own very special type of dance, ranging from the hypnotic, sinuous dance of the Kalbeliya nomads of Jaisalmer to the vigorous, energetic drum dance of Jalore, from the graceful, rhythmic ghoomar dance performed by the ladies of Udaipur to the daredevil fire dance of Bikaner, performed on live burning coals.

Also you'll discover a fascinating variety of folk music here, ranging from the simple, haunting music of the wandering desert minstrels of the Langa and Manganiyar communities to the somewhat more sophisticated mand, traditionally sung at the courts of the Rajput rulers.

Rajasthan is also known for its puppet shows, based on popular legends, and for the Pabuji ki phad, a unique bardic narration of the Pabuji legend, illustrated by a 30 feet illuminated scroll, like some medieval forerunner of the modern animated film!

The best showcase of Rajasthani culture is the famed Desert Festival that is held in Jaisalmer each year, where the finest performers from all over the state gather to vie with each other for honours. In October and November, the annual Pushkar Fair turns into a colourful bazaar with handicrafts of all sorts being sold, and camels, horses and bullocks are being bought and sold in the hundreds.