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Log Four: Mandu-Dhar

Location:47 kms west of Indore
Popular attractions:
Jhira Bagh Palace

Accommodation

Internet connectivity:Exists in name (at Jhira Bagh Palace) but wasn't working when we visited. Is reportedly very slow in any case

Route: Mandu-Dhar: SH 31

Intending to get up early and capture some of Mandu's monuments during sunrise, we managed to crawl out of bed by 7:00 am and were on the road by 8:00 am. We were at the Nil Kanth Palace by 8:30. Nil Kanth is a small palace built into a niche on the side of the tableland, with a breathtaking view of the ravines. What added that special touch to the place was the devotional music in the background (being played by the resident sadhu). The word that came to mind was peaceful. From the Nil Kanth Palace we headed to the village centre to check out the Jama Masjid, Hoshang's Tomb and the Ashrafi Mahal.

While driving into the village we noticed that villagers were huddled together in sombre silence. All the shops were shut and the village had come to a halt. When we asked someone what had happened they told us there had been a death in the village. The village custom, in case of a death, was to close shop in silent respect of the deceased. I was very touched by how close knit the community was. Guess these are just some of the few things one misses out growing up in a big city.

By the time we reached the Royal Enclave, a group of buildings to the north of the village, it was noon and the sun was blazing down on us. One could spend half a day here exploring the Jahaz Mahal, Hindola Mahal, the royal quarters, the Hamam and the Champa Baoli. We suggest you avoid the afternoon.

What seems very apparent, while driving around Mandu, is the interest that has been taken to develop it into a tourist spot. All the monuments are well marked and signposted. There seems to be a patchwork of restoration work underway across the ruins. A couple of years ago the pagoda of the Rupmati palace was damaged by lightning and restored. The central government seems to be restoring one of the structures along the road to Nil Kanth Palace on the right and converting into a fancy museum. The drive to Dhar continued to be as difficult as the drive to Mandu. We decided to night stop at Dhar just so we could experience staying at the Jhira Bagh Palace.

Accommodation at Dhar

The Jhira Bagh Palace was built in the 19th century by the then maharaja of Dhar, Anand Rao Puar II. During the British rule, the palace was the grand English guest house of the state of Dhar. It was witness and host to the life and times of the Raj era. The last ruler of Dhar, Anand Rao Puar IV decided to renovate the palace and use it as his official residence. The palace was renovated on modern lines, keeping with the times. However before the palace could be used India gained her independence and the states were merged with the Republic of India. The maharaja moved to Indore abandoning the Jhira Bagh Palace, which was to remain thus, till it was bought over and converted into a hotel.

The palace has 16 rooms that have been renovated and decorated in different themes. Included below are the various rooms with a brief description of the theme.

Victorian Suite: British décor with fireplace
Maharani Suite: Original suite of the maharani
Gujarat Suite: Glimpses of Gujarat
Jaipur Suite: Glimpses of Rajasthan
Tower Suite: A tower suite
Mehrab Suite: Room with arches
Colonial Suite: Typical colonial ambience
Country Room: Bright room, brass bed, facing the garden
Art Deco Room: Examples of art deco style
Bastar Room: Decorated with tribal pieces
Temple Room: Lots of carvings as in a temples
Mughal Room: Room with Mughal interiors
Billiard Room: Room over looking the Billiard Hall
Shikar Room: A hunters' dream
Meditation Room: A room depicting Buddhism
Pantry Room: Converted from former Pantry

Rates start at Rs 1,650 and go up to Rs. 3,200 for the Victorian Suite. We would recommend booking ahead since during season the hotel is booked with large tour groups that might occupy all the rooms.

Walking through the palace and one can't help but want to stay there and experience the place. Huge rooms, long corridors, little courtyards - all add to the atmosphere of pomp and grandeur. We opted for the Country Room. It is a very bright and sunny room, with huge french windows that look out onto a garden. And for those particulat about their bathrooms - it was impeccable, done in black tiles and white furnishing.

The staff was excellent and took very good care of us (this in spite of a huge storm that knocked out the electricity). I found the furnishings a little plain in some areas (though this is apparently intentional in order to maintain the original look). I thought the rates were steep but given the options for accommodation in the area it is perhaps of little surprise. Definitely a worthwhile stopover.

Apart from living like the King or Queen one could also visit the Dhar fort, the Bhojashala Mosque which has ancient sanskrit inscriptions and a tomb, all located in the town.

Coming Up: Sanchi

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