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Model Lisa Ray

Catwalk...

Mediocre may not be the term she applies to the older models, but Behl's not too impressed with the older lot either. "We have little monsters ruling the roost. Very few faces and too many shows. Lack of personal discipline, among other reasons."

Things are different today, she says. "I've been doing shows for the past 20 years. The ramp was like the theatre then, we had four to five days for rehearsals and fittings. Today, models dictate you. You get two days only. Either they're too busy, or it's an ego thing."

Miss World Aishwariya Rai

But Behl would still pay Rs 20,000 to Rs 30,000 for an established face, as opposed to Rs 3,000 to Rs 5,000 for a new face. "As a choreographer, I'd say two factors influence me while casting. Celebrity names matter to a certain extent, but what's important is a model who can walk well and display the clothes. I believe that each girl gets what she deserves. Newcomers still have to prove themselves, which explains the difference in rates. They ought to be grateful to be up there on the ramp."

Grateful is what the older lot should feel, says Meher Castelino, fashion consultant. "They're stale. And overpriced. But they're still doing three shows a week". She feels that's because we have only 40 or so faces and an increasing number of shows, "they look old, tired and listless. But it's a captive market, so models believe they're indispensable. Which explains the high prices."

New talent has to be tapped. "I don't think it's true that we have no new faces. Continuous exposure is what creates an individual look. I mean, Madhu Sapre was modelling since '88, but it's only when she became Miss India in '92 that people sat up and noticed her."

Meher Castelino

Castelino believes there's a vicious cycle going on in the industry. "Choreographers insist on taking on old models, who are usually friends, which is why the newer lot isn't broken in. That creates a gap because when a few retire, there's no one to take their place. And so the rest can afford to jack up their rates."

"It's ridiculous the way they keep raising their rates every four months," fumes Mehr Jesia, former Miss India and catwalk model who now runs her own modelling school, Face 1. "There's no competition, plus designers don't want to take risks with fresh faces. I really don't think the older lot is being replaced. Lubna, Sangeeta, they're still using the same bunch. Of course, you do see new faces at the Delhi shows, but that's because it's difficult to find sponsors these days. And though the established lot charges between Rs 8,000 to Rs 12,000, they also have to be flown in, accommodation has to be organised. If you take all that into account, the costs shoot up; it could work out to almost Rs 60,000!"

What's interesting is that Roshni, manager, publicity and merchandising division, Ensemble (a leading fashion house in Bombay), believes that these inflated rates are completely justified. "We had an in-house showing this year and we used every big name in the industry. Experienced models are used to the clothes, the quick changes - they're definitely more professional. And if you consider the kind of tension you're dealing with in the green room, they tend to cope better."

Which brings us to the crux of the matter - where has all the money gone? Says Roshni, "People are sick of mega shows, they've become a jaded concept. Which is why, this year, we wanted a professional showing where the emphasis was on the clothing."

The Ensemble viewing was an in-house affair, press and invitees only. "I really don't think," says Roshni, "that the older lot is out of work. On the contrary, it's peak season and they're extremely busy. Shows are in full swing in Calcutta and Hyderabad. It's difficult for us to get dates!"

Behl adds, "There may be a slump in Bombay, but they don't have a weekend free in December. Shows are happening in Bangalore, Delhi, Calcutta and abroad."

And Bombay? "Bombay's had an overdose of fashion shows. Earlier it was a novelty, a place to socialise; the event took precedence over the fashion. But suddenly, no one's interested anymore. There's definitely a slump in the market."

Yet, she insists that this won't affect models since "the product has to be shown on a mannequin, so models are here to stay." Trivedi, on the other hand, feels, "Modelling is so hyped by the media, people don't realise it's fashion that's in a slump. Designers always want their showings to be extravagant events but, unfortunately, there are no sponsors. Probably because, like the ghazal nights, fashion shows have become redundant."

He goes on to add, "The situation is so bad, there are rumours happening in Delhi that any choreographer who has a sponsor gets a show. Which is why you have a whole bunch of them running helter-skelter asking business friends for money."

Model Namrata Shirodkar

Says Behl, "Smaller cities have a lot of cash, which is why there are so many shows there. Unfortunately, when you're dealing with cash, you're also inviting income tax inquires! But it's not the end of the fashion show era, although it has become a tamasha in India. Maybe because we're so voyeuristic; we love glamour."

"Extravaganzas are outdated, outfits sell on their own merit whether on the ramp or in a salon," says Castelino. "At big shows, attention is diverted from the actual purpose." And since the money's thin, she says, "Models are justified in their price only if they behave professionally. Instead, they're late, they throw tantrums and they're never mentally there."

Trivedi has the last word. "It seems that, from 1997, the rates are going up to almost 20 grand (Rs 20,000). If I have the budget for that, it's fine. Otherwise, I'm perfectly content using 10 newcomers."

Quite a mixed up bag of reactions, huh? Clearly, though, no money's being pumped into fashion shows. And choreographers are keen on new faces. So what becomes of the rest? Behl says, "Modelling is a fragile industry in India, especially for those who aren't photogenic. So I keep advising the girls not to give up on alternatives. Most of them are fools because they don't utilise the contacts they make. After all, `Beautiful faces open doors!' "