When I think Christmas, I think snow. Snow and sleigh rides. Santa and reindeer. Presents and singing. Okay, so we live in India; we can't have the universal symbols of Christmas anywhere except in our heads. But that doesn't mean we don't have Christmas. We certainly do, especially in this city of Mumbai [Images], which is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the country. Here we have Kashmiris and Keralites, Biharis and Delhites, Haryanvis and Bengalis. And then we have Italians, Germans, Americans and Hispanics too. All eager to celebrate Christmas their way.
Or at least, that's how it used to be. I live in the Christian dominated area of Mumbai -- Bandra -- and am used to seeing the Christmas festivities up-close each year, complete with pomp and gaiety. Lanky young vendors peer into car windows and auto rickshaws waving their hideous, prickly, plastic-y green decorations, hawkers sell red Santa hats complete with baubles, large gold and silver stars and sprigs of fake holly and mistletoe. The shop windows display large Christmas trees, decorated and lit up with twinkling lights and the facades of several homes are lit up, while snatches of recognisable carols resonate from within -- yes, when Christmas arrived, you just couldn't miss it.
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This year, though, things just haven't been the same. I've been looking for the young hawkers with their decorations, waiting for the stores to pull out their trees and lights, keeping an eye open for the wreaths, nosegays, figures of Santa, sleighs and fake snow, but I've been waiting in vain. The terrorist attacks that Mumbai fell prey to just a short four weeks ago has considerably dampened the Christmas spirit and cheer this year. Shops have hesitantly put out small, wistful-looking trees and wreaths, the pavements have no more than a handful of vendors desperately trying to sell their fake nosegays and homes bear almost no evidence of the upcoming festival.
And then there is pudding and plum cake -- the quintessential symbols of Christmas on each dinner table. Every bakery used to be either selling them or taking orders for them this time of year. Christmas is, after all, incomplete without the traditional plum cake. However, this year, business is not booming as usual -- everyone has decided to keep the festival low-key and large party orders have dried up. Bakeries are bravely putting out their wares, but takers are few and far between. Francis Fernandes, the store manager of confectionery and pastry store Birdy's says, "There has been a definite drop in sales this year. If last year was a 100 percent, this year is no more than 70 percent."
Randolph D'Souza, 34, a Christian resident of Bandra says, "I throw a Christmas party every year. I order a huge plum cake and make some punch instead of apple cider and eggnog. A tree with fake snow and twinkling lights completes the scene. Everyone brings a present and we throw them all together in one big basket and then have a lucky dip. Nobody goes home empty-handed. We have a nice mix of a traditional Christmas along with contemporary party ideas. This year, however, I'm just not feeling up to it. The terrorist attacks in the city, coupled with the ongoing recession have left me quite depressed, and I don't see what we're celebrating anymore. So I guess I'm going to break the tradition this year and not throw a bash. In fact, for the first time in years, I'm going to stay in Mumbai over the New Year."
The fact that the festival transcends communities is a striking one. The other day I passed a missionary school around the time school lets out and heard a familiar tune. I looked around and saw a young schoolgirl walking along, humming Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer. The puja threads she wore on her right wrist were an indication of how Christmas is no longer only for Christians. Many buildings have their own choir groups, who practice their carols each evening in preparation for the big day. Ask them their names, and there are bound to be a few Varuns and Deeptis amongst the Celines and Jacobs.
As far as business goes, hotels have been known to capitalise on the commercial viability of all festivals and Christmas is no exception. The Taj Lands End Hotel always celebrates Christmas in style with grand decorations, an opulently decorated tree, and a festive menu comprising of turkey, plum cake and other Christmas eats across all their restaurants. They also have hampers containing goodies like olives, wine, chocolates etc for sale. This year, however, everything has been downscaled to smaller and lesser proportions. "The Taj Mahal Hotel [Images] has faced devastation and we have lost property and lives just a few weeks ago," says an employee who prefers to remain anonymous. "How can Christmas be the same this year? We have made sure that the celebrations have been toned down to reflect the sombre mood amongst the employees as well as the rest of the nation."
There is more to Christmas than celebration, though. At midnight on Christmas, most Christians (as well as some non-Christians) attend mass. The service goes on for about two-three hours, and is the one prayer service most Christians try their best to attend. This year, the number of people attending Christmas mass is expected to be much larger than usual and many of them are bound to be non-Christians: an indication that prayers for the country's safety and security won't be drying up for a while yet.
Christmas is an unavoidable celebration and however low-key things might be this year, the spirit of giving and love for your fellow man continues to reign stronger than ever. So don that red Santa hat, pass that candy around, jingle those bells and ho-ho your way to a Merry Christmas [Images]. Just remember to spare a prayer for peace, while you're at it.
Photograph: Rediff Archives
