Rediff.com« Back to articlePrint this article

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST

An exhibition of rare 1885 photographs that capture Mecca in a past is on in Dubai. Dutchman Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje took the images on wax cylinders then newly invented by Thomas Edison.

We took some of the shots taken by Snouck and assessed the transformation of the holiest place on earth for Muslims.

This image of the Kaaba -- a building known to Muslims as the holiest place on earth -- taken from a hillside is barely recognisable.

Click on NEXT to see how how Kaaba has evolved...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
A view of the grand mosque today.

Click on NEXT to see More...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Elie Domit, host of the exhibition, said that the images were more astounding considering the lengths that he took to take them. Although cameras today are light and multifunctional, Domit mentioned that "in Snouck's day they probably weighed about 40 kilos, and he needed to take all the chemicals for developing, which he would have done on site." 

Image: Another view of the big mosque during a samalat

Click on NEXT to see a close-up of the grand mosque today...



Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Present day photograph of Muslim pilgrims circling the Kaaba at the grand mosque in Mecca

Click on NEXT to see more...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Also fascinating, says Domit, is the story of Snouck himself. A pioneering traveler, he was a rare Western presence in Mecca, but embraced the culture and religion of his hosts with passion, converting to Islam.

Image: Snouck's photograph of Mecca in 1885

Click on NEXT to see today's Mecca...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Today's view of the grand mosque with the famous Mecca Clock at the rear

Click on NEXT to read further...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Snouck stayed for five months, documenting the run-up to Haj. But although he had intended to stay for the pilgrimage, he was forced to leave after unfounded accusations of his involvement in an attempt to steal a historical artifact.

Image: Snouck's photo on the tomb of Sittana Maimuna, the wife of the Prophet, during the Haj

Click on NEXT to see how it looks today...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Today's view of the location, packed with pilgrims' tents

Click on NEXT to read further...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
After Snouck's departure, Al-Sayyid Abd al-Ghaffar, a local physician that the Dutchman had worked alongside, began using the camera, possibly becoming Mecca's first home-grown photographer.

Image: View on the eastern part of the Mina valley during the Haj

Click on NEXT to see how the area looks today...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
This latest photo shows pilgrims on their way to cast seven stones at pillars symbolising Satan during the second day of Eid al-Adha in Mina

Click on NEXT for more...

Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST

Al-Ghaffar continued sending his images to Snouck in The Netherlands. Many of the photographs were originally credited solely to Snouck but they are now jointly credited, with experts unable to tell who shot what.

The images, archived by Leiden University Library, were published four years after Snouck's trip. Original copies of the album now sell for about $45,000, according to the gallery.

Image: View on Muzdalifa, the Haj stop-over place between Mina valley and Mt Arafat

Click on NEXT to see how the place looks today...






Haj THEN and NOW: 125 years apart

Last updated on: November 19, 2010 11:40 IST
Today, millions of pilgrims travel to Muzdalifah

Click on NEXT for MORE...