Buying Expensive Skin Care Products? Read This First

Understanding the ingredients used in skin care products is crucial. Dr Pravin Banodkar explains what each one does and who should use them.

The skincare market is flooded with products featuring buzzwords like vitamin C, retinol and hyaluronic acid, but how do you know which ones actually work for your skin?

"There is no single type of skincare will suit all skin types. Some people have oily skin, some have dry skin, some have sensitive skin. Knowing your skin type is very important. Once you know that, you can decide your skincare routine and the products you need to use," says Dr Pravin Banodkar, co-founder and lead dermatologist of Skin Beyond Borders.

To maintain your skin's health, he recommends embracing modern skincare considering today's rapid lifestyle and environmental changes.

"There's harsh sun, so much more pollution, climate change. The effects of all these on our skin are highly detrimental.

"Our food habits have changed. Our sleep patterns have changed. Screen time was not a concern in the past.

"All these factors contribute to skin damage.

"A simple application of turmeric paste or using coconut oil -- which was the advice given by our ancestors -- is not going to help," says Dr Banodkar.

Skincare today, he says, should begin as early as age 11.

"In the US and Europe, people start using sunscreen from age seven as they are more prone to skin cancers. While Indian skin is not as prone to cancer, it is prone to tanning and pimples. One should at least start with basic products like anti-acne creams, moisturisers and sunscreen."

Understanding the ingredients in these products is crucial. Dr Banodkar explains what each one does and who should use them.

Vitamin C

Most Indian skin types are prone to pigmentation or hyperpigmentation, which makes some areas of the skin darker than others.

Many products feature vitamin C as a major ingredient since it has fewer side effects.

However, when used during the day, it can cause sun sensitivity.

It's better to use products that contain vitamin C at night.

Who needs it?

Office workers who use computers all day.

People with field jobs who get tanned can use vitamin C products at night.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is essentially rice extract that helps reduce pigmentation.

It works on melanocytes, the cells that cause skin pigmentation, and helps reduce their intensity.

Unlike vitamin C, which can be applied all over, kojic acid is typically used on specific pigmented areas -- for example, on marks left by pimples.

Who needs it?

Young teenagers can use it.

Important: If you're using kojic acid, use it by itself. Mixing it with other products could cause unwanted reactions.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is a peeling agent that removes the top layers of dead skin.

It's excellent for de-tanning.

Available in serums and body lotions, glycolic acid can be used regularly to lighten skin and/or reduce ingrown hair.

Who needs it?

Anyone facing tanning problems.

Peptides

Peptides are proteins that function as healing products; they repair the skin.

The skin's healing capacity reduces after age 45.

Beyond this age, peptides help repair skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

They are used in anti-aging products, under-eye creams and serums.

Who needs it?

Individuals above 45 seeking overall skin improvement.

Ceramides

Ceramides also help repair skin but should be used only in specific cases.

They are particularly beneficial for two common conditions: atopic dermatitis (eczema) and sensitive skin syndrome.

Who needs it?

Individuals facing the specific skin issues mentioned above can benefit from ceramides.

As they are an expensive product, they shouldn't be used for general dryness.

Alpha-arbutin

Alpha-arbutin -- which helps in reducing skin pigmentation -- works similarly to kojic acid.

It is, however, less irritating than kojic acid, making it both effective and safe. It can be used for extended periods.

Who needs it?

Anyone experiencing general skin dryness.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid functions like a moisturiser but imagine it is an intense sponge.

It helps skin retain moisture for extended periods.

Long-term use improves very fine lines, fine pores and wrinkles, while making sensitive skin less reactive.

It's now used in many filler treatments through skin injections as an injectable moisturiser.

It's also available in serums, gels and masks as an anti-aging treatment.

Who needs it?

Anyone between 40 and 45, when skin damage becomes more pronounced.

Also beneficial for individuals with high stress, smokers, those with poor lifestyle habits, inadequate sleep or insufficient water intake. All these factors make the skin look dehydrated.

Retinol

Retinol is a powerful anti-aging agent effective for pigmentation, lines, wrinkles and open pores.

However, it is also a drying agent so those with sensitive skin must be careful.

Use it sparingly and only at night as it's extremely photosensitive. Morning application can cause severe skin irritation.

It's essentially a 360-degree molecule that works on multiple aspects: it stimulates collagen (which keeps your skin firm and supple), reduces pigmentation, minimises pores and improves overall skin texture.

Always pair retinol with a moisturiser.

Who needs it?

Anyone facing general skin problems like dryness and dullness.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a specialised product used primarily for acne.

It reduces oil gland activity. When oil glands produce less sebum with salicylic acid, acne decreases.

It's available as face washes, serums and gels.

Salicylic acid is also integral to many clinical treatments.

Who needs it?

Most Indian skin types in younger age groups, from teens to around age 40. It helps reduce oiliness, thereby improving skin quality.